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How should I get my Prince autograph poster framed?

Some of you may have seen my recent post in the "Prince Autographs" forum about the new Prince signed poster that I just acquired. I initially had put it in a huge toploader. The poster is 23x35. Paul had suggested I be careful about toploaders as they often contain PVC which could damage the poster. Now I've used them for years on photos without any problems. Plus BCW, who makes the toploader, says that the PVC in their toploaders is not made with a plasticizer and will not harm your posters. Well, after just two days, I noticed an area just starting to get a little spotty, although it's still not really noticeable. So I decided I wasn't going to take anymore chances, and I removed the poster from the toploader - not an easy task, but now it's out.

So earlier in the day, I had talked to a local frame store, and the owner said he could frame it up with museum quality materials and UV glass for around $225-$250. He said he would permanently mount it to a board and frame it museum quality.

So I please ask for any recommendations from the experienced people here. Should it be permanently mounted to a board? I think he was saying that so it would not develop any waves in the poster. Is that a good idea? I just want to protect it as best I can. I've got quite a bit invested in it as is.

Please help. Thanks in advance. I'm not too experienced with framing.

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Permalink Reply by Paul on July 21, 2016 at 2:04am

No don't permanently mount it to a board because they use glue, just ask him if he can loose lay it in a frame without glue.

Permalink Reply by Eric Keith Longo on July 21, 2016 at 2:32am

Agree w Paul strongly. Permanently mounting to museum board is a bad idea unless the item need stabilization. Anything done should be fully reversible. I suggest an anodized aluminum frame for stability - not wood. Wood frames can undo all the acid free efforts and mats. Oak for example is extremely acidic and hygroscopic.

Eric

Permalink Reply by James on July 21, 2016 at 5:01pm
Thanks, Eric. That's what I'll probably go with.
Permalink Reply by James on July 22, 2016 at 11:09pm
Thanks, Eric. I did go with an anodized aluminum PURPLE frame!
Permalink Reply by Eric Keith Longo on July 23, 2016 at 12:51am

Excellent! Many finishes available aluminum, so purple it is. But be assured, anodized aluminum is so very inert - you did your poster a favor. All museums I have worked with preferred it. Be sure the poster surface is not in contact with the glass - ask for spacers. And archival hinges or whatever depending how the item will be suspended. Perhaps acid free "corners" might suffice between mats. Other linen taps with adhesive (archival) are fully reversible. 

Eric

Permalink Reply by James on July 21, 2016 at 5:00pm
Thanks, Paul. I think I found a guy now who knows what he's doing.
Permalink Reply by James on July 22, 2016 at 11:08pm
Paul, thanks for the recommendation. That's exactly what I'm having done. The back of the frame will be an acid-free foam board, and it will be mounted with large museum corner pockets. It will be completely reversible. It's in the shop right now. I'll get it back in a couple of weeks.
Permalink Reply by James on July 22, 2016 at 11:14pm
Oh ya, Paul, also I'm going to have a relatively thin black mat around the poster surrounded by a PURPLE aluminum frame with conservation glass with 99% UV protection.
Permalink Reply by Paul on July 22, 2016 at 11:17pm
It should look great!
Permalink Reply by Mark Saunders on July 21, 2016 at 4:39pm

that quote is ridiculously low. A proper frame job for a poster should be close to a thousand bucks. worth it though. 

Permalink Reply by Eric Keith Longo on July 21, 2016 at 5:04pm

Mark makes a good point - that doesn't even cover materials. I was distracted by the dry mount thing. many go to all that trouble only to find it improperly attached to the back of the hinged mat.

Eric

Permalink Reply by James on July 21, 2016 at 5:08pm
With all due respect, Mark, that sounds pretty expensive to me and out of my budget right now. Plus, if I put a grand into a frame, and I decided to sell, I can almost assure you I would never recoup that cost.

I've seen very nicely framed Michael Jordan UDA signed jerseys for $1500-$1700, and since unframed ones go for normally at least $1100-$1400, those aren't $1000 frame jobs, and a framed jersey is a large item.

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