We are an eBay affiliate and may be compensated for clicks on links that result in purchases.

Can you recommend a great framer?

Hello all,

I have a very delicate piece that I would like to frame. Can anyone recommend a shop? Im in southern california but I can ship.

Thanks

1 member likes this

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Eric Keith Longo on October 21, 2017 at 5:03pm

Hi again Mark,

I'm sorry - I neglected to ask in what way is this item "delicate"? Maybe I can be of more help? :)

▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Eric Keith Longo on October 21, 2017 at 5:05pm

Well, I am in NY, so that's a bit of a problem recommending a great framer. I don't like shipping because it makes the following questions and requirements difficulties. Don't leave it to the framer! I have heard "my framer attached my Michael Jackson to the mat with masking tape or something laying around as he ran out of linen tape - this is OK, right?! You don't want that! Also, picking the correct mat would be very difficult from afar!

BUT, I can recommend great framing! :) Look for a Conservation Framer.Don't settle for anything less.

The Frame: This serves to support, protect and visually enhance the autograph. Wood frames, esp oak or those with finished, will outgas or exude acidic fumes as they age (this is one reason people use acid free mats). This can be eliminated by using the most inert and stable material for framing - Anodized Aluminum. And wood holds an INCREDIBLE amount of water! Aluminum frames are also available sectionally, and this will save you a TON os $. Now they come is an amazing array of finishes and profiles.

The Mat/Hinge and Backboard: This is the "window" - it must be acid free. It serves to prevent contact between the graph and the glazing. The backboard is what the autograph is attached to - often with a hinge attached with simple paste or reversible adhesive or sometimes acid free "corners" like in old photo albums. It is vital that proper reversible acid free inert materials are used here! Of course, the backboard must be acid free as well as the linen tape used to hold them together (they get "hinged" as well in a way. I prefer another board after the backboard.

Clips/Nails/Points: These secure the glass and work in the frame. I prefer pressure clips as they are common with Anodized Aluminum, are easily removed and replaced (for that one speck of dust etc) and they do not require a gun to shoot them into the frame.

Glass/Glazing: What kind of glazing glass is a matter of taste to a degree - the UV does remove some full color saturation esp with darks as it is not quite as clear. Hang properly with 20LB wire and strong eye hooks (or the equivalent on an Aluminum frame) on a proper 40LB picture hanger in a dim spot out, of direct light, and enjoy!

PS - Many framers will attach brown kraft paper to the Reverse as a final step with cheap double-sided tape - do not allow this. Ask for buffered paper or acid free. Be careful and ask about every and all adhesives used at every point of framing.

PSS - If you really want a wooden frame you can have the framer liberally coat the interior of the frame with so called "acrylic gesso" which is just CaCo2 in acrylic emulsion. This will act well as a buffer to the acid coming from the wood. Don't use oak under any circumstances.