We are an eBay affiliate and may be compensated for clicks on links that result in purchases.

Proper Archival Framing to Protect Your Autograph

Being an active collector of autographs and in the archival framing industry since the 1980s, it amazes me what I see when I remove autographs from most frames. It is very common to find household (acidic) tape and regular non UV glass contained inside frames. ANd, I have never seen 4 ply museum grade cotton rag for matting AND backing on these important autographs - NEVER!

Framers should know better when framing original autographs and documents. After all, these items are one-of-a-kind and valuable.

My purpose in writing this is to inform collectors and dealers on what they need to tell their framer when having their items framed.

Over the years, many collectors have sent me their framed autographs out of concern for how they are mounted and framed. And, although I have seen a few autographs properly framed to irreversible standards, the vast majority have had poor materials and workmanship. To the point where the autograph suffered irreparable harm!

The incremental costs of framing it correctly is very little. Yes, wholesale costs to purchase true museum quality materials versus regular materials is negligible. Anyone telling you otherwise is either lacking in knowledge or not stating the facts.

First, in a lot of cases, I notice the frame shop will indicate that UV glass or plexiglass was used, when actually it wasn't. Though this is blatant dishonesty, this indicates that you must fully trust the framer and instill how important the correct materials are for important framing applications.

Secondly, most framers inherently assume "acid free" matboards marketed as such are good for autographs.

Nothing can be further from the truth!

Without question, every single time I have removed, marked as "acid free", I have noticed a mat burn stain where the matting was placed. "Acid free" mats are made entirely of wood pulp low grade materials! These materials will create a mat stain, as mentioned, on the paper item.

Only insist on 100% pure cotton rag mats. Only these mats and similar backing should only come in contact with the document or autograph.

Another mistake framers do is mount the autograph directly on foamcore.....BAD!!! Foamcore, even the "acid-free" foamcore, will break down and outgas overtime. If your framer makes the case FOR foamcore, do not walk, but RUN to the door!

Secondly, tell the framer you want archival corrugated board behind the rag backing. AGAIN, NO FOAMCORE.........PERIOD!!!! The best material for outer backing is archival grade coroplast. This is completely inert and rigid for stability and a great buffer.

For glazing (this is either glass or acrylic), you do NOT want non glare glass (this is made with lead!!). You want either Tru Vue Conservation Clear UV filtering glass, Tru Vue Museum Glass, (anti reflective), OP3 plexiglass or Tru Vue Optium Museum Acrylic.

Light is a huge factor in fading and discoloration; and, you must also keep your item OUT OF DIRECT Sunlight....no matter the glazing.

For mounting, use either mylar corners, strips, or archival hinging.......NO commercial tapes, glues or other over the counter materials. Restrict the use in archival grade tapes. Even Japanese paper. These can add moisture which may cause irreversible buckling.

Tell the framer, you want the top and bottom mat BOOKHINGED! (this means that the top mat with the opening is attached to the bottom mat via linen tape on the top edge). 9 out of 10 times the framer will apply double sticky tape to keep mats attached. Should the item slip within the matting, it may get stuck in the tape....big problem!

A few rules to follow: NEVER, EVER allow the document, autograph or photograph to be sandwiched better two pieces of glass, coming in contact with the glass! Condensation will bleed onto the item and stick to the document.

Finally, instruct the framer you want the ENTIRE framing process completely REVERSIBLE in case you or someone else in the future may decide to disassemble the framing for any reason.

Tags: autograph, document, frames, framing, historical, mounting, preservation

6 members like this

< Previous Post

Comment by Rick Badwey on March 10, 2014 at 1:18pm: This manly depends on the matting and glazing used, but to be blunt, Avoid coming into the piece, especially with an irregular shape. Over time, some fading and shadowing, not to mention mat burn (if the matting is not 100% rag) will cause a distortion to the appearance, especially if the autograph is removed.

Virtually all of the time I have handled framed items from dealers, collectors or auction houses, there has been some signs of "deterioration" that is evident from the framing. The reason for this is that most framers are not versed on the need to proper framing materials and thus, they use their routine framing techniques. And those who do, get resistance from those who do not want to pay their price.

Comment by Darwin Cox on November 20, 2019 at 10:00pm: hi do i need frame spacers?

Comment by Rick Badwey on November 21, 2019 at 3:40am: If you dont have a mat to prevent glass from touching art

Comment by Darwin Cox on November 21, 2019 at 7:42am: thanks for your response on the spacers, i have seen plastic ones, is this the most common our there any other types.

Comment by Rick Badwey on November 21, 2019 at 6:29pm: Yes they are.

Comment

You need to be a member of Autograph Live to add comments!

Join Autograph Live

‹ Previous
1
2
Next ›

RSS

Welcome to
Autograph Live

Sign Up
or Sign In

Proper Archival Framing to Protect Your Autograph

You need to be a member of Autograph Live to add comments!

Blog Posts

Ebay Seller Smpsportscards Sells Forged Counterfeit Willie Mays 1996-97 Topps Autograph Card

COA CSA Authentic Forged Babe Ruth Cut Autograph Laughable

Ebay Seller Tsuch67 Sells Forged Mickey Mantle Duke Snider Willie Mays Baseball

Photos

1000022629

Barbara Lewis

Sally Field

Sally Field

Groups

Rock, Pop, Blues and Jaz…